31 July 2014

1-4 July 2014: Aging

To get an idea of how diverse the conference talks were, we began and ended our first conference day with keynote speakers.  The keynote speaker at the beginning of the day presented her work into documenting images of the aging female body.  As she noted, it's uncommon to see portrayals of older women in the media, particularly "ordinary" older women (i.e., not Helen Mirren, Meryl Streep, Judi Dench, or the like), and so she used a variety of phototherapeutic techniques to try to get older women to take pictures of each other, particularly ones that would subvert stereotypes about aging.

The one at the end of the day, who is apparently New Zealand's Chief Scientist, presented to us a lecture about the possible evolutionary origins of aging in humans, to help discuss why humans live so long and why our bodies seem to encounter new challenges towards the end of life.  Contrary to popular belief, many humans in the "caveman times" did often grow older than you'd think, into their 50s/60s/70s.  Average life expectancies were very low only because of child mortality; if you lived to be 18, you stood a quite good chance of living longer.  His interest was in trying to explain why for evolutionary reasons our ancestors who had aging accompanied by a largely poorer physique did better than the ones who did not see these problems, with a particular interest in why humans (but almost no other mammals, besides elephants and dolphins) undergo menopause.

Yep, it was an interdisciplinary conference.  In fact, it was basically a non-disciplinary conference.  There's a bit more available on the conference's website.

Part of the reason for that was why the conference existed in the first place.  The conference was set up by Universitas 21, a sort of football conference for academia.  Basically, it's a bunch of schools who consider themselves academic equals deciding to get together and chat about international collaborations and such.  One of their initiatives is a graduate student conference, held every summer at one of the member schools.  The conference is intentionally given only a very vague topic, such that as many schools as possible could present something somehow related to the topic.  This year's topic was aging, and, as it so happens, I had one experiment related to aging; hence submitting my abstract, which was selected by UMD to represent our school at this conference (along with two other marvelous presentations).

I won't talk too much about the particulars of the conference, but it was clear that there were many good talks, some not-so-great-ones (sometimes speakers didn't do a great job of talking to the extremely diverse audience), but, overall, a lot of spirited discussion and fun conversation.  There were also some non-talk periods where we could socialize with each other, and we were also expected to make group presentations with some other researchers around a topic that, well, pretty much none of us were supposed to have any experience with.  My group presented about an issue that one of the judges had been working on for decades, in which we accidentally (and unknowingly) contradicted everything he had been doing for decades, so that went about as well as could be expected.  We also got lab tours on the second-to-last day; I particularly enjoyed the robot lab we visited, which included robots that were supposed to help older adults take medicine and vital sign measures.

My presentation went pretty well.  I was presenting some of my research looking at the effects of how fast you talk at the beginning of a sentence affecting the number of words you hear at the end of a sentence.  I compared younger adults (18-21) with older adults (55-65) and found... no differences whatsoever.  This would normally be a boring finding, but based on the previous research done in the field, it was actually pretty shocking.  I think it went pretty well (some people said some nice things), but mostly I was just relieved that the audio in my presentation actually worked like it was supposed to!

Another fun bit was the keynote on the second-to-last day, who, it turned out, had been a postdoc (research scientist) for many years at UMD working in the labs of a couple of faculty that I know quite well!  It was a lot of fun to talk to her about what was different at UMD and what hadn't changed.  That day started with her talk, and had all three talks from PhD students at Maryland, so, needless to say, they heard a lot about how cool College Park is.

The conference schedule was quite jammed, so the only social activities I could do were those we had time for in the evening.  On the first night after the conference, some of us decided to go out together closer to the harbor in Auckland, as the conference-provided dinner we thought we had been promised ended up just being appetizers and finger food.  We spent a while wandering around before we found a place we could agree on - unfortunately, though, the sign said "burgers", even though I had already had burgers the night before!  As we sat down, though, it turned out we had stumbled on an outdoor patio site that was split between two restaurants, one with burgers, and one with other options.  Whew.  I discovered that the girlfriend of one of the conferencegoers worked in a lab I had been hoping to work in when I applied for a Marshall Scholarship, and so I got to spend time talking to her about what she was doing in that lab.  And, of course, the usual conference hijinx abounded... save for the copious imbibement of alcohol, as draft beers were something like $8 or $9 a pint.  Yikes!

The second night, some of us went out to a Belgian restaurant that I had found on TripAdvisor (which is an amazing tool, by the way, and hasn't lied to me yet!).  We all had a variety of tasty foods... but, entertainingly, and without any planning beforehand, all ordered exactly the same beer.  At least it was tasty.

The next day, after our conference, we hopped on a bus to head to the Sky Tower, Auckland's local version of UFO-perched-on-a-torch architecture.  (See also the Space Needle in Seattle, the CN Tower in Toronto, or the Sydney Tower in Sydney.)  The top of the Sky Tower included a rotating restaurant, where we had dinner.  It was, of course, inferior to Duluth's rotating restaurant, but we still got a 360-degree rotating panoramic view of the entire city of Auckland, which was pretty awesome.  Our seats were assigned through unknown powers; I was fortunate enough to sit with some fun people, including the Dean in charge of running the conference, who had a PhD in New Zealand History.  We then got a quiz on New Zealand history.  Through, er, no help at all from the Dean, er, right, yep, totally legitimately, we managed to get the highest score on the quiz, which entitled us to a free cocktail from the bar.  I got a Kiwi Bellini.  It tasted like lies success.

On the way back, I sat in the driver's seat... or, at least, what would have been the driver's seat had we been in the States and had it not been a double-decker bus (me being on the second deck).  I proceeded to drive the bus with vigor, aplomb, democracy, liberty, and, most of all, freedom.  Those sitting around me were entertained.

Our last day was the Fourth of July.  Theresa and I, being the born-and-bred Americans we are, were asked to start the day with a patriotic song.  Our rendition of "America the Beautiful" went about as beautifully as you might imagine.  As was put by one of the other students at the conference: "I was very impressed by how you were always at least a half-step out of tune with each other for the entire song."  Yep.  Oh dear.  After the conference day was done, everyone said our goodbyes... what a fun conference, in the end, and what lovely people I met!  Me and the others from UMD headed together to the Auckland Museum, a huge museum in the middle of Auckland's largest park.  Although we only had a couple of hours there, I saw a lot of interesting things, including a wide variety of Māori artwork (the Māori are the indigenous peoples of New Zealand) and a little computer simulator that turned your body movements into simulated movements by a Pacific Island chief.  I'll see if I can post the picture I took of me doing that.

I walked with Theresa and Alex (the other UMD student) towards our hotel, and we said our goodbyes.  It was time for Alex to head to the airport, and for me to head to the Couchsurfing-based Fourth of July party I had been invited to.  The rest of my trip was about to begin!

18-20 March 2014: Denmark

In preparation for my trip to New Zealand, I thought I'd, y'know, finish up my blog posts from this spring.  Sorry about the lack of timeliness.  I suck.  But, on the plus side, pictures!

My flight from Estonia was entirely uneventful.  As I stepped into the bathroom after my flight, the first thing I saw was a plug that looked like this:

I'M A PLUG =D
 I do not think the shape of Danish plugs is an accident.  Denmark seems like a country that's so happy even their plugs constantly need to be expressing joy.  In fact, as I left the Copenhagen Metro, heading to my Couchsurfing host, a guy just outside the Metro greeted me with a pleasant "Welcome to Denmark!"  I was used enough to Finland/Estonia's character by now to be terrified by the intrusion and walked quickly away.

Denmark also offers iPhone reparations.  For those who lost property in the Great iPhone War of 2011.
What's this "Couchsurfing" thing, you ask?  Think airbnb or VRBO, but without a financial transaction.  Basically, the thought is to find people around the world willing to put visitors up in their home, in exchange for the opportunity to have a cultural exchange and the chance to meet someone new and interesting.  Best of all, it's free - it's definitely nice to bring something with you for your hosts, or, at least, to do the dishes or something for them, but it's not required.  Basically, it combines some of my very favorite things: meeting new people, learning new things, experiencing places like a local would, and being frugal.  Most excellent!

The user experience of finding a host is kind of like online dating.  Basically, you write a little message about who you are and what you're doing in the place where you're surfing and why you'd like to surf at someone's place.  It's completely acceptable for prospective hosts to turn you down if you ask.  Unlike online dating, though, there's also a system of references, where former surfers/hosts can leave messages describing their time with a prospective host.  (My hosts in Denmark were taking a bit of a risk with me because I didn't have any references.)  This can really help in finding someone fun and safe.

As soon as I saw my Copenhagen host Jen's profile, I immediately dashed off a message to her and started praying, basically.  Jen seemed really cool - she had a ton of good references, worked in a "biohacking" lab (basically, open source science; so anyone who wants to can wander in and do experiments, more or less), had a very fun profile, lived in apartment in a cool place, and, best of all, grew up in Minneapolis, Minnesota, of all places.  I figured for my first host, it couldn't hurt to stay with someone who would seem a little familiar.

True to form, the first thing Jen asked me to do when I entered her apartment was to take off her shoes.  I was in the process of taking off my shoes, because, really, what else would you do when you enter someone's home?  (On a related note, it still weirds me out when I'm taking off my shoes after entering their place and people start insisting that I leave my shoes on.  "Oh, no, you don't have to!"  But I want to.  It's really uncomfortable to have shoes on in a house; it's abnormal, unless you are expecting that I'll be leaving right away.)  We were immediately best friends.

She tried to set me up with a spare bike outside their house.  As we tried to get it unstuck, the key wouldn't fit in the bike lock, and she didn't have oil to fix the problem.  Jen thought a bit, then went up and got her hair oil, which fixed the problem.  But, alas, the bike had a flat tire, which the bike store couldn't fix in time for it to be useful to me.

There are seriously bikes EVERYWHERE in Copenhagen.  The only other place I've seen such crazy biking obsession was Amsterdam, which is also a pleasant happy city right on the sea.
Regardless, I walked into town to see some of Copenhagen.  The National Museum of Denmark was a disappointment.  Not so much for its organization or style (quite nice) or the price (free!), but because of the disturbing lack of Viking paraphanalia.  Seriously.  There were only like 5 rooms with Viking stuff in them.  THAT IS THE POINT OF DANISH HISTORY.  VIKINGS HAPPENED.

On the plus side, though, while walking to the teensy-tiny Viking section, I happened to walk behind two older ladies, who were ambling slowly in front of me.  One of them turned backwards and said something to me in Danish.  "Sorry?"  She switched to English.  "We noticed you seemed to be walking faster than us.  Do you want to go ahead of us?"  "Oh!" I said, "That would be very nice!  Thank you!"  "We're getting old!" said the one talking to me.  "Oh, no, you're not!" I said, walking past them.  Have I mentioned that I love Danes?

After the museum, I wandered further around Copenhagen.  I stumbled on a beautiful church that I wasn't expecting to exist after hearing it chime on the hour.  The building was beautiful inside, with a huge dome and ornate decorations.

Kierkegaard?
Unfortunately, my attempts to see the anarchist commune of Christiania were prevented by the extremely confusing system of bridges of Copenhagen, so instead I had to hurry back to Jen's apartment.  She and her SO, Magnus (who's a Dane) treated me to a delicious meal: meatballs in a (thankfully mild) curry, with lemon mousse for dessert.  One of my pet peeves is the sound of silverware scraping against dishes, but I managed to struggle through it in order to eat every last scrap of that mousse.  I also gave them a huge bar of white chocolate with blueberries that I had purchased in Estonia.  We chatted the night away, and she shared with me some Minttu, a minty (surprise!) alcohol from Finland and told me stories of the knife throwing that she apparently saw everywhere in Finland.

Jen and Magnus had a rug that was the exact same colors as my shirt.
The next day, I set off to the train station to head up to Aalborg to see my friend Bailey.  I made sure to stop by Christiania, which was very disappointing at 8:30 in the morning.  Apparently it is too early for anarchists to be out and about.  I boarded my train for Aalborg.  My notes on my train ride say "crying baby", "happy baby", so apparently there were small children.

In Aalborg, I met up with Bailey, as well as my couchsurfing host there, Mads.  Mads is pronounced "Mess", by the way, in case you thought other languages might make more sense than English.  Nope!  After getting my stuff situated at Mads's place, Bailey and I decided to tour around Aalborg together.  We tried to take a selfie outside the local church... and, no sooner had we done that, but a Dane freely offered, with no provocation, to take our picture.  Oh, Danes!

Heading into the church
Bailey and I had a lovely time chatting and catching up, as I heard stories of her time in Denmark.  You can read more about her adventures at Bailey Abroad.  Finally, we circled around to dinner, and had a delicious meal at a sort of brewpub in town.  On their menu, they had "a refreshing, cool glass of milk" (yes, in those words) listed as an option, much to my entertainment.  My readers will be shocked to learn that I had beer instead.

Mads, my host, was a surprise.  He volunteered to host me the week before (this is another feature on Couchsurfing... when you ask any individual to host you, you can also basically put out an APB asking for help, and Mads was willing and able to do so), and I accepted, in part, because I didn't really have anywhere else to stay on Aalborg.  He turned out to be a wonderful guy: very friendly, and with an interesting job helping arrange conventions for Japanese culture aficionados in Denmark.  He liked basically all of the games that I like... yes, he had played basically every single Paradox game (and loved them all) and had run a game of Mafia (although it went by Werewolf among his cohort) with about 120 people playing in it.  He even drank more milk than me in a week.  Than me!

I spent the night at his place, then, in the morning, had breakfast with him and Bailey at a delicious pastry shop called Penny Lane.  Penny Lane wasn't too far from the bus station to get me up to Frederikshavn, the port that would get me to Sweden.  My bus ride was uneventful, and I started wandering around Frederikshavn.  But both of the restaurants I had looked up cost more than the Danish currency I had left, and not even the Friends café could save me.  So, I started milling about, until I finally found something that had something for the money I had left.

It was good I did so.  As I sat down and ate my mediocre sandwich, I saw an old lady motor past in her scooter.  She was wearing a jaunty red hat.  But it was a terribly windy day in Frederikshavn... as days in Denmark all tend to be.  Her hat flew off her head.  I continued monitoring her progress as she looked around and scooted over to the hat.  She tried picking it up herself, but wasn't able to.  At this point, I decided to take matters into my own hands.  Disobeying TSA guidelines, and leaving my baggage unattended, I went outside, gave her the hat (to which she said "Tak!" and something else, to which I modestly said "Nej, nej," because I had no idea what else to say), and made sure she got off safe and sound, hat in hand.  I felt reassured that I was doing my part in repaying Denmark the favor of a most excellent visit.

From there, I headed up to my ferry and boarded it.  It was... pretty bad, with the deck I was sitting on featuring a terrible disco-themed live band.  Blah.  I guess nothing could compare to my first ferry with the mysterious witch.  Next stop: Göteborg, Sweden.